CHELSEA. London restaurant legend Terence Conran started out with this quirky, elegant restaurant, which doesn't scrimp on a single detail. Sit within a Grade I listed building, where a bold blue color scheme and large, colorful stained-glass window dominate the white-table clothed, intimate and somewhat formal dining room. Beautifully prepared dishes include squid ink risotto with grilled squid and gremolata, deep-fried haddock and chips, and grilled calf's kidneys. The wine list is so large it's arranged in a three-ring binder. Diners looking for more laid-back environs can check out the downstairs oyster bar, which offers fresh seafood and a friendly atmosphere. 3-course prix fixe lunch £28.50. TUBE: South Kensington

Mon-Tue, Thu-Fri Noon-2:30pm, 7pm-11:30pm; Wed Noon-2:30pm, 7pm-11pm; Sat 12:30pm-3pm, 7pm-11:30pm; Sun 12:30pm-3pm, 7pm-10:30pm

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