GOLDERS GREEN. This restaurant serves some of London's best sushi. So, while fabric-draped ceilings and comfortable surroundings are pleasant, they take a backseat to the authentic, innovative menu. Dishes include sushi, deep-fried scorpion fish, and shrimp tempura. In addition, the set dinner menu offers terrific sampling at great prices. You'll get several starters, a broad assortment of sushi, and your choice of main dish, not to mention an elaborate ice cream-based dessert. TUBE: Golders Green

MARYLEBONE. There's nothing flashy or frilly about this Marylebone sushi joint. The emphasis instead is on exceptionally good sushi, sashimi, and nigiri. An excellent wine list and friendly, efficient service round out the experience. Private rooms are available for parties, and dinner bookings are encouraged, especially on weekends. TUBE: Bond Street

HAMPSTEAD. This Hampstead restaurant boasts a telltale green facade and serves a tasty array of Japanese fare, from hand-rolled sushi and eel (the latter fried, of course) to chicken yakitori and shrimp tempura. Each dish is prepared to-order, using only the freshest ingredients, and intimate wooden tables and subtle decor give Jin Kichi an authentic feel. TUBE: Hampstead

ST. JAMES'S. This longtime Japanese favorite continues to thrive, thanks to a spacious interior, helpful service (they'll even put your bib on for you), and excellent teppanyaki-style cooking. Lobster, duck, chicken, and pork are all prepared in an authentic manner and with skill by entertaining chefs at large, yellow, U-shaped tables. When the meal is done, lights are turned down for the finale ­ fireball ice cream prepared amid Grand Marnier flames. TUBE: Green Park

MAYFAIR. This well-known Japanese restaurant is famous for its fresh seafood dishes and its huge variety of noodles. Although the exterior looks unassuming (even nondescript) and the interior is almost equally simple, the prominence of Japanese patrons lets you know that the kitchen is skilled at authentic cooking. Sashimi is a specialty, and dishes like grilled eel, seafood teppanyaki, and hamachi keep aficionados coming back for more. TUBE: Green Park